Guide

How to Equip a Bike Rack

Updated on · By the Store Beez team

Start with the right receiver class, then fit the rack snugly, set the arms to your frame sizes and add locks. Check every strap and pin by hand before the first trip, and tighten the rack again after a short test drive.

On this page (9 sections)
  1. How do you equip a bike rack in the right order?
  2. Which hitch receiver does your rack need?
  3. How do you stop the rack rattling in the receiver?
  4. How do you adjust the rack to your bike frames?
  5. What hardware should you add to a bike rack?
  6. How do you load and strap bikes safely?
  7. What safety checks should you do before driving?
  8. How do you care for an equipped bike rack?
  9. What does a well-equipped bike rack look like when you're done?

To equip a bike rack, fit it to a compatible receiver, tighten it so it doesn't move, adjust the arms or trays to your bikes, then add locks and safety straps. Do that in order and the rack will carry bikes quietly instead of wobbling behind the car.

The rack does most of the work, but the parts around it decide whether the ride feels steady. The receiver fit, the hardware and the way the bikes sit all matter more than the rack's price.

How do you equip a bike rack in the right order?

Fit the rack first, then the bikes, then the locks. Doing the steps in this order means you tighten the heavy parts while the rack is still easy to reach.

Start by reading the rack's fit notes and the hitch rating. Slide the drawbar into the receiver, fit the pin and tighten everything down.

Load one bike and set the arms or trays to its frame. Load the rest and check that nothing touches.

Add locks last. Finally, drive a short distance and recheck the pin and straps.

That sequence covers how to equip a bike rack without backtracking.

Which hitch receiver does your rack need?

Match the receiver class and tube size the rack asks for. A Class 2 or higher hitch with a 1 1/4 in or 2 in receiver is the usual base for a two-bike hitch rack.

The receiver tube size is the first thing to check. A 1 1/4 in rack won't fit a 2 in receiver without an adapter, and a 2 in drawbar won't fit a smaller tube at all.

Class ratings also set the tongue weight a hitch can handle, so a rack plus bikes should stay under it. The Swagman XC 2-Bike Hitch Rack fits a Class 2 or higher receiver in either 1 1/4 in or 2 in.

Its two trays carry up to 35 lb per bike and take tires from 20 in to 29 in. Measure your receiver before you order so the rack goes straight on.

How do you stop the rack rattling in the receiver?

Tighten the rack's own anti-wobble device first. If the drawbar still moves, a hitch tightener takes up the leftover play.

Rattle comes from space between the drawbar and the receiver walls. Many racks include a bolt or wedge that pulls the bar against one side.

The Swagman XC 2-Bike Hitch Rack has a built-in anti-wobble device for this. When that isn't enough, or the rack has no such part, a clamp closes the gap from outside.

A tight fit also reduces noise and wear on the pin.

When should you add a hitch tightener?

Add a tightener when the rack still shifts after the built-in device is set. The Rhino USA Hitch Tightener Anti-Rattle Clamp is a U-bolt and plate for 2 in hitches, with a rubber-coated bolt and a nylon insert lock nut so it stays put.

It fits Class I to IV receivers and also suits cargo carriers and trailers.

Fit it after the rack is in place and the pin is in. Tighten evenly until the movement stops rather than crushing the tube.

Skip it on a 1 1/4 in receiver, since this clamp is sized for 2 in hitches.

How do you adjust the rack to your bike frames?

Set the arms, trays or wheel holders so the bikes sit level and clear of each other. The upright arms on a frame-style rack slide and tilt to fit different frame sizes.

Loosen the arm adjusters and slide each one to the height of the bike's top tube. Then tighten it again.

The Swagman XC 2-Bike Hitch Rack takes frames up to 59 cm (23.2 in), so measure the top tube on a large bike before you set the arm. Trays and wheel cradles need the wheels centered and the tire seated in the strap.

Load the heaviest bike first and keep the handlebars turned away from the car. If two bikes share a rack, offset the frames so the pedals and bars don't touch.

A folded rack also stores easily when the trip is over.

What hardware should you add to a bike rack?

Add a locking pin for the rack and a cable for the bikes. Those two pieces of hardware cover most theft and tamper worries.

A locking pin replaces the plain pin so no one can pull the rack off the car. A cable runs through the bike frames and the rack so the bikes stay with the car.

Together they make the rack harder to walk away with. They also stop the pin from being pulled at a trailhead.

Pick hardware made for your rack, because not every pin fits every drawbar.

Which locking pin fits your rack?

Choose a threaded pin only for a rack with a threaded receiver bar. The Swagman 1/2-Inch Diameter Locking Hitch Pin and Security Cable is made for Swagman racks.

It threads into a block inside the drawbar and pulls the bar tight against the receiver as you turn the key. The kit includes an 8 ft, 10mm braided steel cable for the bikes and two keys.

It fits a 1 1/4 in hitch, and a 2 in hitch only when the rack uses a 1 1/4 in to 2 in adapter.

Check the pin diameter and thread before buying. A pin that only loosely fits the hole won't hold the rack steady.

For more on securing bikes and the rack, see our guide to the bike rack hitch lock.

How do you load and strap bikes safely?

Load the inner bike first, then strap every frame and wheel. Loose straps are the most common cause of a bike rubbing paint or slipping on the road.

Set the bike in the trays so the wheels sit in the cradles. Fit the frame strap over the top tube and pull it snug, but not so tight that it bends cables or brake lines.

Run a wheel strap over each tire. Push down on the bike to test for movement.

A bike that rocks in its cradle will rub on the next bike or the car over a long drive. Keep the rack's arms away from carbon frames if the maker warns against clamping them.

What safety checks should you do before driving?

Check the pin, the receiver fit and every strap before you pull away. A short pre-drive check takes a minute and catches most problems.

Push the rack side to side and up and down to feel for movement. Confirm the pin is fully in and any lock is closed.

Pull each frame and wheel strap by hand. Then look at the load from behind the car and check that no bike sits lower than the rack's lowest point.

The rack should clear the exhaust and stay above the road. Finally, allow extra room when reversing and in parking garages.

For a second rack in the family, the picks in our 3 bike hitch rack roundup use the same checks.

How do you care for an equipped bike rack?

Wash the rack, dry the hardware and store it folded when not in use. Small upkeep keeps the fit tight and the straps reliable.

Rinse road salt off the frame and trays, then dry the pins and bolts so they don't rust. Look at the straps for cracks or fraying and replace any that show wear.

Tighten the anti-wobble device and the arm bolts a few times a season. Take the rack off before an automated car wash.

When the season ends, fold the rack and store it indoors, out of the sun. A rack left on the car all year collects grit and wears faster.

If your rack model comes up short on any of these points, a MaxxHaul bike rack review shows what a simpler design asks of you at setup. For a step-by-step on one common brand, our guide on how to use a Saris bike rack walks through the arms and straps.

What does a well-equipped bike rack look like when you're done?

A finished setup has a tight receiver fit, arms set to the frames, a locking pin and a cable through the bikes. Nothing moves when you push it, and every strap is snug.

To equip a bike rack well, start with the receiver match and the rack's own hardware. Add a tightener only if play remains.

Then set the arms, load the bikes and lock both rack and bikes. Recheck the fit after a short drive and at every stop.

If the rack suits your hitch and your bikes, that's the whole job: fit it tight, load it level and lock it down.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a hitch tightener with a bike rack that has an anti-wobble device?

Not always. A rack with its own anti-wobble device already pulls the drawbar snug, so add a clamp only if the rack still shifts in the receiver.

On a plain hitch mount with no such device, a tightener is the simplest fix for rattle.

Can I equip a bike rack with a locking pin if my rack has no threaded hole?

No. A threaded locking pin needs a matching threaded receiver bar, so fit it only to racks made for it.

For other racks, use a locking pin with the right diameter or a separate cable lock that runs through the frame and the rack.

How much weight can a two-bike hitch rack carry?

The rack's own limit decides, not the hitch's. The Swagman XC 2-Bike Hitch Rack is rated at 35 lb per bike for two bikes.

Add the weight of e-bikes or heavy cruisers only if the rack's limit allows it.

Do I have to remove bike racks before going through a car wash?

Yes. Take the rack off before an automated wash, because brushes and spinning cloth can catch arms, trays and straps.

A rack also adds width behind the car, so check your clearance in tight lanes and parking spots.

How often should I recheck the rack after fitting it?

Check the pin, the rack's fit in the receiver and the frame straps before each trip. After the first 10 to 15 miles with bikes loaded, stop and retighten anything that has shifted, then repeat the check at each rest stop.

Can I leave the bike rack on the car all year?

You can leave a hitch rack fitted, but take it off for long storage periods. Sun, road salt and rain wear the straps and finish, and a folded rack takes up little space.

A locking pin keeps it on the car when you park.